20 Most Recent 2011 Chevrolet Impala - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Have you checked the level of the power steering fluid if it is low it can cause a noise similar to what you described. The power steering pump could be starting to fail and making the noise. I would suggest checking the power steering fluid level and if low, they make some fluid that has power steering fluid conditioner, supposed to help extend the life of the power steering pump, if it is low you need to follow the lines from the pump and see if you can find a leak anywhere. also I would take notice of the color of the power steering fluid, if not too much trouble maybe take a picture of the fluid and upload it here, the fluid can break down and need to be replaced.

Look up the owner's manual.

Check the fuses.

Check battery and make sure the charge is good. If unsure , try a boost

door actuator is no good

If the check engine light is on there will be OBDII and manufacturer specific codes. These codes start with a letter and are followed by four numbers (P0304 for example). These codes can only be read by an OBDII code reader or a scan tool. These are the codes you need to get in order to start trouble shooting your vehicles problem. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Start with a "professional" coolant system flush. Sounds like there's a blockage somewhere. If you're putting coolant in the resevoir and not directly in the radiator, and it's disapearing, check the radiator. If radiator is full it's a blockage, if it's low/empty there's a leak.

If you don't have a tester. Find the fuse location for the defroster and pull it out. If you can't tell by looking then swap it with another one of the same type and size from the panel that you know is good (i.e. that system is working fine). If the unit works the fuse was bad. If not you need to troubleshoot the defroster circuit to find the problem.

yes what is it that you need

Depending on what's wrong. A bad wheel sensor, A couple hundred dollars. Bad module, A thousand dollars. Have the codes read and repost.

If your radio has theft protection built in, it thinks it was stolen because its standby power was interrupted. Check the owner's manual to see if there is a special procedure for preventing this lockout when the battery is changed. Typically, it involves entering some sort of code sequence on the radio controls. If you don't know the code sequence or never set it up, you'll probably have to have a factory reset done. (Sorry, I don't know how that is done; the manufacturer keeps it secret for obvious reasons.)

Like any good electronic stability system, the StabiliTrak is designed to make driving safer by helping the vehicle to stay on its path when going around corners. What happens is as a driver heads to fast into a corner, the tires can't grip the road and sends the vehicle either skidding or spinning out of control. Now the StabiliTrak system, using a complex set of sensors and a controller, sends a quick series of pumps to the individual brakes to help the vehicle pull out of the turn and stay straight on the road. The sensor can measure the difference between the angle of the steering wheel and the direction you are actually turning. Then, as defined by the situation, it uses precise for precision pressure on the right brakes to help the driver stay in the right direction. The entire process happens so quickly that the driver's won't really know that it is going on. They won't even recognize the need for a correction in the steering it happens so fast. If they do suddenly recognize that they are heading into the corner too fast and pounce on the brakes, the system will still be able to detect and deal with the uneven braking problem.

There are a few reasons this might happen. Believe it or not it could be as simple as a loose gas cap. That can cause a false reading in the throttle position sensor, and activate the traction control. Remove the gas cap and put it back on making sure to tighten it until it "clicks". Another reason may be a faulty throttle position sensor, or it has a glitch, thus activating thr traction control. Try the "Old Fashioned" fix of disconnecting the battery for about an hour, to reset the computer. After you reconnect it, turn the key to the ON position but don't start it. Slowly press the accellerator to the floor and release. Turn the key back off, wait a few seconds then start the car. This should take care of the glitch, if not it's most likely the throttle position sensor needs to be replaced.

Like ALL Vehicle problems, the car has to be scannedwith professional test equipment, to find any codes &systems with the faults,before any component testingcan take place

Most cars have a temp sender which is what supplies the reading on your dash, and a sensor which supplies a signal to the computer. The dash senders are typically not very sensitive so they tend to read a lot more in the middle when the coolant may be getting too hot (but not dangerously so). If this continues when the engine is cool from a fresh start then one of the two is likely faulty.

Change your temperature sensor

There are MANY engine control malfunctions that can cause the engine control system to default to "Reduced Power Mode".Reduced Power Mode is simply a computer strategy that was created by the vehicle manufacturers to keep people from doing dumb things like continuing to operate the vehicle with the "Check Engine" or other warning lamps YELLING at them to get their car properly diagnosed and repaired. Reduced Power Mode is also designed to protect the vehicle from further damage in certain cases.Ignoring the warning lamps can cause safety issues as well as damage HIGH DOLLAR parts like catalytic converters, which the vehicle manufacturers are responsible for due to Federal Emissions and Safety laws.As for whether it is covered under warranty....Many major components of your engine control system are covered under the Federally-Mandated 8-Year 80,000 mile emissions warranty. The ONLY way to find out if your particular failure is covered is to have the vehicle first diagnosed to determine what is CAUSING the failure. Then you must check with an authorized dealer to see if the part (or parts) causing the problem are covered.