Top 20 2008 Saturn VUE Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and typo. Question moved to model category. in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Saturn+Vue+3.6.+firing+order ..

Are any check engine lights on?Try this first: Disconnect your battery and wait about 2-3 minutes. Then reconnect it and see if you can shift out of park.If that doesn't work, you'll need to check the transmission fluid. It could be too low to provide enough pressure to switch gears. It'll need to be checked with the engine warm, idling.If the transmission fluid checks out fine (it's not low or burned/dark colored), chances are there's a mechanical problem with the transmission or shift linkage. Keep in mind the fluid could also have metal and friction particles blocking the flow of oil through the channels, even if it looks ok. Here are a few possibilities of what else could be wrong (not an all-inclusive list):Manual Valve to Detent Lever Link (802)*Broken or missing*Disconnected from the manual valveManual Valve to Link Clip (801)*DisconnectedManual Valve (800)*StuckShift Linkage*DisconnectedValve Body, Channel Plate and Case*Blocked fluid channels

When I have had trouble with V-belts squeal or serpentine belts the belt is loose need to adjust tension or tension pulley bad. Belt wore and needs replacing or some of the pulleys are dragging while rotating or turning, could be bearing for pulley going bad. Check belt is tight, look of high wear a lot of cracks in the belt. You can try loosening the belt and turning the pulley which will turn and see if they odd sounds or stiff to turn. Car Sounds and Diagnostics ' Auto Repair Tips ' Paul Campanella's DE - Paul Campanella's Auto & Tire Center (campanellas.com) How to Diagnose and Fix Belt Squeaks or Squealing Noise Issues - YouTube Loud Squealing Noise From Engine Bay ' How to Check a Serpentine Belt - YouTube

It is integrated into the throttle body with the control motor. View this video for Saturn Vue T/Body issues.: https://youtu.be/1CEJ9TNK8O8

Bank 1 is generally the cylinder bank closest to the firewall. Bank 2 is the one closest to the radiator. Sensor 1 is the one in the exhaust manifold. If the OBD code says it is running lean, you find it is covered in black soot when you remove it. With the new one in, you may get a running lean code as it is burning the soot out. Reset the code, it is a false positive. Happened to me last week. https://www.google.com/search?q=sensor+1+bank+2+on+a+2008+saturn+vue+3.5l+v6+location ..

Start with a wiring diagram.

Disconnect the creative wiring and check the multiple power inputs to the ECM are functioning as prescribed (ignition switch OFF/RUN/START).

Try "Carmin Std" app for free (with ads) wiring diagrams.

It's just inside the chassis under the vehicle on the driver side just in front of the rear wheel. Its silver and about the size of a small can of beans. It's an in line filter, takes about 1/2 to 1 hour to change with fuel line tools. You dint have to have special tools. A pair of needle nose pliers and a small standard screw driver will do. Park it where you don't mind dumping about a half pint of fuel. have a rag and oil pan to catch the fuel and it be under pressure so be careful taking lose. use the rag to keep the spray from getting on you. then pull the hose towards the pan and if you use a clean pan you can pour the fuel into your mower or back in the tank just not the dirt and rust

probably is not a light but only a reflector

Pressure has built up in the system possibly from a clogged orifice tube/expansion valve. Replace the orifice tube/expansion valve, thenPull a vacuum on the system and recharge.

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That's usually caused by a misadjusted push rod going into the master cylinder OR a misadjusted brake pedal switch. When either are out of whack it won't let the master cylinder piston return all the way to home, so it covers up the relief port in the M/C. As the brake fluid heats up and expands it can flow back through the relief port, so the pressure continues to build and it actually applies the brakes.

Lot's of warning lights , check engine and all the others , You should have the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes . Lost power codes probably ! Could be a number of thing's ,ignition switch , BCM - body control module just to name a couple . DTC'S will point in the right diagnostic direction . The electronic's on your vehicle Are complex to say the least . The body control system consists of the body control module (BCM), communications, and various input and outputs. Some inputs, outputs and messages require other modules to interact with the BCM. The BCM also has discrete input and output terminals to control the vehicle body functions. The BCM is wired to the GMLAN High speed serial data buss and the GMLAN Low speed serial data buss and acts as a gateway between them. If the BCM does not communicate the vehicle will not start due to the inability of the engine/powertrain control module (ECM/PCM) and vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) control module to communicate without the BCM providing the gateway function. Power Mode Master This vehicles BCM functions as the power mode master (PMM). The ignition switch is a low current switch with multiple discrete ignition switch signals to the PMM for determination the power mode that will be sent over the serial data circuits to the other modules that need this information, and so the PMM will activate relays and other direct outputs of the PMM as needed. Refer to Power Mode Description and Operation for a complete description of power mode functions. This is something you should have checked out by a qualified repair shop .

take back to th GM dealer as they must guarentee there work for 12 month's

reset the ERCM using a scan tool while the brake pads looked fine , the rotors should be removed as that gives the same impression as the abs in operation there could be a cracked rotor causing the noise take it to an accredited brake specialist shop

possible that there is an issue with the torque converter clutch servo/solenoid operation take it to an accredited service center and have it properly diagnosed

bad batteries can charge up to twelver volts. Monitor voltage while crankung if it drops to or below 8 volts you do have a bad battery. It could be a solenoid switch although that starter should have come with a new one. Baterry terminals can corrode to the point that that they will not cobduct. Also ignition switch could have broken..
Last but perhaps the first thing to check is a coolant leak... A cylander full of antifreeze coolant will prevent the engine from turning over.
The new starter we put on a friends car did turn the engine over bending a rod and breaking a piston. Had we know a cylander was full of water we could have done head gaskets instead he spent four thousand dollars on a full overhaul.

Have you checked the power steering fluid?

I don't know liter size of engine? I looked at info for 2.4L. The circle in the picture should be thermostat housing. You can drain coolant, a little, remove any hoses from thermostat housing. The housing probably has a couple of bolts holding it, Use proper wrench or socket to remove bolts, remove thermostat housing, the thermostat should be under the housing. The installation should be the opposite of removal. Then top off the coolant. If your going to work on your own vehicles, you need a basic set of tools, wrenches and sockets, standard and metric size, pliars--different types of screwdrivers, we can go on and on.

With colder weather, tire pressures will decrease a little. Check the pressures on all your tires. If they are within two or three psi of the recommended pressure, you should be able to drive for another day before airing them back up. But if one (or more) tire is five psi or more below recommended pressure, it probably has a slow leak and should be aired up, preferably repaired, as soon as possible.

Then one of your five tires I'm including your spare has low air pressure go put air in the tires