? 6:54https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ire7vyDqelg
Feb 10, 2013 - Uploaded by RatchetsAnd Wrenches
Here is how you test a car relay the correct way. Really the one and only way it should be tested. If this video .
? 4:51
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psqxVvU5Hig
Jan 24, 2013 - Uploaded by klowny1969
How to check a ford type starter solenoid relay DIY troubleshooting car no crank automotive repair easy step ...
DTC P1682: Ignition 1 Switch Circuit
Circuit/System Description
There are two ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). The first ignition 1 voltage circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The run/crank relay provides the second ignition 1 voltage circuit to the ECM, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage provides power to other internal ECM circuits, except those associated with TAC operation. The ECM continuously monitors the voltage level difference between the two circuits.
Are you seeing a Reduced Engine Power message ? You can't by-pass anti-theft system , your problem is probably a lack of voltage supply to the ECM .
There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few
for now u can try reliable-store.... let me know if u need help
thanks
You can get guide from many sites.. i know few
like reliable-store
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered
within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete
https://s8.postimg.org/ew3ed6k85/saturn_aura_stop_lamps.jpg
You may have a bcm problem? The bcm controls both the brakes and turn signals. Any applicable trouble codes? Click on the link, part of wiring for brake lamps, you can check the fuse and relay. Also, check the fuse circuit for voltage, use a test light.
On most vehicles use a thin metal (screw driver, knife) object to pop the cover off. That would gain you access to thebbulb. Usually there are either two screws that hold the assembly in or a couple of tabs. Release the tabs or remove the screws and the assembly should come out.
Which engine ? This vehicle had option of six different engines , 2.4 , 3.5 , 2.8 , 3.0 , 3.2 , 3.6 And are you picking on the right part ? What code >
DTC P0010: Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit
DTC P0013: Exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit
It may not even be a cam sensor problem !
DTC P0340: Intake CMP Sensor Circuit
DTC P0365: Exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
DTC P0341: Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance
DTC P0366: Exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance
Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator System
The camshaft position (CMP) actuator system is an electro-hydraulic operated device used for a variety of engine performance and operational enhancements. These enhancements include lower emission output through exhaust gas dilution of the intake charge in the combustion chamber, a broader engine torque range, and improved fuel economy. The CMP actuator system accomplishes this by changing the angle or timing of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft position. The CMP actuator simply allows earlier or later intake and exhaust valve opening during the four stroke engine cycle. The CMP actuator cannot vary the duration of valve opening, or the valve lift.
During engine OFF, engine idling conditions, and engine shutdown, the camshaft actuator is held in the Park position. Internal to the CMP actuator assembly is a return spring and a locking pin. During non-phasing modes of the camshaft, the return spring rotates the camshaft back to the Park position, and the locking pin retains the CMP actuator sprocket to the camshaft
It may
I am not sure what "the inside is not connected means" but I would first start by contacting your local auto parts store as they usually carry a few universal key fobs. if this doesn't work you could always search online for a replacement.
The answer to this question depends on which head lamp in inoperative. But which ever side it is the low beam lamp that cannot be accessed from the engine bay needs to be accessed through the bottom panel of the forward air dam. You will think to yourself "no way" but it's true. You won't be able to view your work but once you have the panel off reach up to the lamp receptacle and rotate it. You can then pull the harness out to where you can get an eye on it. Change the lamp and reinstall. Wear latex or nitrile gloves when installing the new lamp so you don't get any finger oil on the new lamp.
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Description and Operation.
The automatic transmission shift lock control system is a safety device that prevents an inadvertent shift out of PARK when the engine is running. The driver must press the brake pedal before moving the shift lever out of the PARK position. The system consists of the following components:
• The automatic transmission shift lock solenoid (serviced as the automatic transmission shift lock actuator), as well as the body control module (BCM) and the engine control module (ECM). The shift lock solenoid is located within the floor shift control assembly with vehicles equipped with floor shift.
• The BCM controls the voltage supply circuit of the shift lock control solenoid. The following conditions must be met before the BCM will supply voltage to the shift lock control solenoid.
The BCM controls the voltage to the shift lock control solenoid through the shift lock control solenoid controlled voltage circuit. The following conditions must be met before the BCM will supply voltage to the shift lock solenoid:
• The ignition is in the ON position.
• The ECM sends an input via GMLAN serial data to the BCM indicating the transmission is in the PARK position.
• The BCM determines the brake pedal is applied according the brake pedal position.
Since the shift lock control solenoid is permanently grounded, the BCM supplies voltage to the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid, mechanically unlocking the shift lever allowing the driver to move the shift lever out of the PARK position as the solenoid energizes. When the brake pedal is not applied, the BCM turns the control voltage output of the shift lock control solenoid OFF, de-energizing the shift lock control solenoid. The de-energized solenoid mechanically locks the shift lever in the PARK position.
During remote start operation, the BCM will de-energize the shift lock control circuit, locking the shift lever in the PARK position.
Circuit/System Description
The body control module (BCM) controls the shift lock solenoid by providing battery voltage to the shift lock control solenoid. The BCM utilizes a smart driver to control the voltage supplied to the shift lock solenoid. The smart driver monitors the voltage and current flow of the control circuit.
Diagnostic Aids
• Use a scan tool to verify there are no brake pedal position sensor and/or transmission internal mode switch (IMS) DTCs set that could cause the BCM not to provide battery voltage to the A/T shift lock solenoid.
• If the automatic transmission shift lock control circuit is shorted to battery positive voltage, the A/T shift lock solenoid will be inoperative. The vehicle will shift out of PARK without depressing the brake pedal.
Your best bet is have it towed to a repair shop !
I use exactly the same the jacking points as I would use with the factory scissor jack. They are reinforced to handle the load. You'll find these point marked with triangle stamped into the rail and in your owner's manual.
Hot does make a difference. You say it won't start, but does it crank and not start, or not even crank? If cranks but will not start, any electrical part may fail as it heats, and when you shut it off the engine gets much hotter since coolant is no longer circulating. Thus, a marginal crank or cam sensor, or coil/ignition module may work while cold of while engine is running, but fail when you first turn car off.
Hello: Possible intermittent brake light switch, it could be loose or misadjusted. You may have to replace it. It is mounted on the brake pedal assembly.
Knowing which engine you have in your car would be immensely helpful in this case. The 2.4 L and 3.5L engine can be removed from under the car. The 3.6L engine requires the timing cover be removed. The more you know....
head light should swing out from fender to grill after pushing release clip on fender side turn back of bulb to remove from lens bulb pulls straight out If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_9693b5ad75773352