20 Most Recent 2009 Porsche Cayenne Questions & Answers

Remove headrest, there is a small button on the base of the headrest mount you need to push in. Next pull up the strap at the front of the seat cushion bottom, then flip forward. Press in the flipper on the top of the seat back and pull forward.

Something's draining it, or the battery's old and sulphated.

As with most vehicles the rear window and tailgate gets covered in dirt, salt etc. which is thrown up from the rear wheels and by the wind swirling out and up. The cover on the camera needs cleaning and lubricated regularly. I washed the cover, dried it with high pressure air and lubricated it with a silicone spray. When I first did it, there was a fine dirt in the crevices that needed to be dug out. I used a small blade to scrap it out, then lubricated it. Good luck.

since a bonnet is on an english car this opens up at the firewall i take it this is the mechanism you are talking about to open the hood or bonnet and to answer you. no you only might be able to get to the hinges on it not the opening mechanism, sorry

This could be bad ignition switch, grounding on starter or to the block, or aggressive detailer! My Cayenne had terrible demons after I had it detailed. I had instructed them not to lift the hood to clean the engine (my thoughts on ALL cars). Water pressure can get to electrical places under the hood that are water tight but not for high pressure. They called me 30 minutes after I dropped it off and said it wouldn't start. I went right back there and saw that they had used a 3000 PSI pressure washer to clean the engine compartment (#@$#$#$##!!). Water in electrical can cause shorts and and multiple connection points that should be isolated from one another. I left it in their heated space with the engine hood up and windows open until the end of the day and it started. I had seat buttons that would push the seat forward when I asked it to go back, a window that wouldn't open, radio turned on/off randomly, and sometimes the car would not start - lights came on inside but starter would not turn on! Through the summer the problem got better and eventually the car was fine. Permanent damage can happen with pressure washers so I like a dirty engine after detailing. If you want a clean engine allow them to wipe the top and sides but no pressure washing under the hood!

See www.rennlist.com and search for Rear hatch DIY this is where i found this for you.Picture # 2 and #3 are just the tools and the parts used... The parts were ordered from Sunset at a cost of $170.94 + shipping. The tools needed include a variety of screwdrivers (extra long drivers are helpful) for prying trim clips free, trim tools for the same, a T-20 torx for the grab handle screws and the C-pillar trim screws, and a small Phillips for the D-Trim screws. The instructions I used were printed from Renntech.org ( http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-hatch-struts/ ). I beleive you must be a member there to view the forums... I also used the video at http://www.renntech.org/forums/video...hatch-springs/ ... If you aren\'t a member at Renntech, you should definitely consider it! Both the DIYs were very helpful!Picture #4 - 6 show the Rear Trim Valance that must be removed... First remove the light by gently prying the driver\'s side down with a small screwdriver, then remove the electrical connection by simply pulling it free (no latch). To get the valance free, just pull down on it from the back edge and look underneath. There are 9 large clips that are best removed by inserting a long screwdriver under the edge and gently prying it free.Pictures 7 - 10 show the D-pillar and C-pillar trim being removed. The D-pillar trim has a small phillips screw behind the small door at the top of the panel, 9 large clips, three smaller ones along the bottom edge, and an electrical connection to the small speaker (some may not have this). Unfortunately, I discovered that the two clips at the bottom front of my panel were previously broken off (within blue circle) by the technician who did this job some 4 years ago (doesn\'t that just bug you?). They are a bit fragile, so pry them free first.The C-pillar trip has a T-20 torx screw behind the Airbag trim cover, as well as two small clips at the bottom (one at the front corner, one at the rear). Pull this panel free and allow it to just slide down the seatbelt... The only reason you are removing this trim is to allow the headliner to be gently pryed down at the rear.Picture 11 shows the grab handle being removed... Do this on both sides. The screws are T-20 torx.Picture #12 is of the white plastic "supports" at the rear corners that must both be removed. There are three T-20 torx that hold this piece in place. NOTE: You do not need to remove the torx holding the airbag in place (see red X). Remove both of these and set them aside...Pictures 13 - 15 show the "deformable elements" that now must be removed. They are rigid foam pieces that seal the struts mounting locations from the interior so that any water that might find its way into the mounting cavity does not intrude into the interior. The "glue" used to hold these in is a pliable, sticky, mess, but you must remove it so that you reapply the new adhesive properly. Some have suggested that you could just use silicon in place of the recommended adhesive. That might well work just fine, but I purchased the recommended stuff when I bought the parts, and I am glad that I did... It is messy to work with, but the way it remains flexible tells me that it is better suited for the task.After cleaning up the adhesive from both the deformable elements and from the car itself, it is now time to actually replace the struts (that is why we are here, right?) I purchased all 4 struts (2 for the glass, and 2 for the hatch). The struts for the glass were only an additional $32.14, so it didn\'t make sense to me to go to all this trouble and not replace everything...Pictures 16 - 18 show the mounting points for the struts... They are difficult to see and to get to (and to photograph), but they are actually relatively easy to replace. You might want to enlist the help of a friend or spouse here, as it is easier to reinstall the struts if you can lift up on the hatch to precisely align the ball mounts. I removed all four struts before reinstalling any...The old struts are best removed by either prying the small clip back from the ball mount (look at the new parts and you will see what I am talking about), or by simply prying them off the ball mounts with a large screwdriver. To install the new parts, you simply apply moderate pressure to the rear of the ball socket and they will pop on... It may be easier to gently pry the retaining clips back before doing this, but then you must be sure the clips return to the correct position or the socket may pop off the ball. I simply popped them on.Reassembly was just the reverse of disassembly... Once you get the panels in place, a sharp rap at the right spot usually popped the clips into place. There were no problems encountered in reassembly, and I was very glad that this was done!

You will need to buy a new set of headlights, from a supplier or maybe ebay who deals with RHD lights, i looked into this my self once, for a focus.

The lift cylinder needs to be replaced.

Hi

Is the ignition live wire connected to the tv tuner?

If the tv tuner is hooked up to the ignition to only work when the car is running then once you turn it off it will lose power and forget anything, like presets. Most likely you will need to run a wire to the tv tuner from the stereo, they are normally a yellow wire with an inline fuse from the back of the car stereo this gives a constant feed for power and thus ensures you tv tuner will remember you presets the next time you get in the car. It works in the same way as your car radio remembers your favorite radio channels, without this you will get the fault your having. Especially if the TV tuner was fitted after market.

Also if it is a factory set up then check the in line fuse, and or fuse box for any blown fuse's the TV tuner could still work if it has 2 power feeds, but without the constant live will not store anything to memory.

This is very common people just wire them to work and often forget the live feed. If you need more info please let me know.

Hope this helps
Regards
Dan

yes it should she be 4 bolts, two in front and two in back. If its electric just be careful to not rip any wires

Should be a switch near interior rear view mirror

unlock the door then press the lock button on remote and hold down for 20/30 secs.manual does say hold button.....