Honda Accord - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4

Turn radio on and unplug speakers one at a time until you hear sound one of your speakers is blown and when it shorts it does something to the sound and cuts totally out..once u find the bad speaker and un plug or replace it will work

Not 100% sure, but I think it gets power from ecu, and feedback from the position sensor.

Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) diagnostic trouble code (DTC) 51-XX indicates an internal failure of the SRS unit (computer). There isn't much to the diagnosis of this code; the procedure consists of erasing the codes, cycling the ignition switch, and if DTC 51-XX, 52-XX, 53-XX, 54-XX, 55-XX or 58-XX is detected, replace the SRS unit. It's important to note that if the vehicle was in a collision prior to this failure, there are many other components that need to be replaced along with the SRS unit depending on which airbags and/or seat belt buckle tensioners deployed. Regarding VSA DTC 61-01, an OBDII scanner capable of accessing live sensor data should be using to inspect the VSA "BATTERY" parameter ID (PID) and compared to battery voltage read with a digital multimeter. If battery voltage is low for both, the battery and charging system should be inspected. If it's only low for the VSA unit, the VSA unit should be updated with the latest software. If up-to-date, the VSA unit connector should be inspected for loose terminals and power supply circuits checked for high resistance. If OK, the VSA unit should be replaced. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-an-abs-control-module-by-robert-kulp

None of this works on a 2005 civic keys locked in trunk manuel trunk pull is locked and back seats only fold down with the key to open them so what did I do remove the plastic cover in the drivers side where the locked manuel latch is find the trunk pop cable and pull ups it until it pops the trunk latch took 2 min

open glove box and remove operators guide and read. if lost go to honda.com and get it for free. the PCM must be scanned to see if it is blocked for example , if here are DTC errors on speed sensors how can this cute feature work. ask any shop in USA , ASE rated to check this out. they will find it. lots of computers in the car and they all must be happy see? scan it. if the instuctions say top use the keyfob buttons try a new battery in the fob. 13 years old is2 times normal life of that battery and if weak, it can fail in very very odd ways. the coin cell is a $1 fix. also told in the manual how.

To clear the Permanent DTC using a dedicated monitor cycle, start by repairing the fault that caused the DTC in the first place. Then clear all the codes except for the permanent DTC (if it were that easy, there'd be no problems), and make sure the Permanent DTC is the only one left.

I experienced the same type of issue with my Corolla and I took it in and turned out it was a connection that had come loose. Also, check to see if there are any recalls for your airbags or sensors. That was another issue that mine had.

USA spec car in USA? not told 2.3L inline 4 banger.DOHC +VVT cam. 5sp, M/T nor real name of the box told. Vtec is honda name for VVT, valve variable timing, and is not a transmission part at all so is off topic if we want to do 1 at a time. a wise idea that, leaks are your problem.as all are. your post seem clueless, here, find a real shop and get it fixed? vtech bad causes huge engine power loss, for sure stuck in idle mode. so lets end that here. and talk the box, what box 5 speed is it not told at all honda says 5speed is a manual transmission M/T the silly cable to it is bad. end story, endless. 2 cables clutch release snapped i gear. makes it hard to shift if you do not move car bay hand to N./ (a trick to lean 2 man job) as all tow truck drivers know for 100 years. shift cable bad. (or levers to it) see this first photo , one can drop off links to that #8 part and shift the box by hand, sure can and if can the box end is good . box means transmission box in whole.,, mech jargon. all this is pure mechanics 101 problem shifting any M/T is. photo 2 is lever #2 id and cable set 6 one if bad, looking only finds it as is 100% pure mechanical parts. end to end. no brains no CPU or TCM brains here, just real gears and levers and flex steel cables that love to fail not lubed regular. photo

I have the directions to remove/install transmission, need email address to send to

Hi Try to jump start the car. Put the jump leads on and leave it for 10 mins that will charge the battery up then try and start. Also check the starter motor.

You must drop the pan that is under the transmission to drain the fluid, don't forget to replace the fluid filter.

Yes, with the battery being disconnected that long, you need a mobile auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose all the issues and do the programming of modules that are lost..

Start your car, turn the wheel all the way to the right, then take out the retaining clip on the inside of the fender well. the reach inside and rotate the bulb counterclockwise and pull it out

only dealer can get you the code and you have to prove you are the owner of the car.

DTC P1362: TDC 1 Sensor No signal

Hi. Have you change the fuel pump relay?
If not change the relay, The original number is, RZ0088.
In the fuse box below the steering column. Is there a fuse for fuel pump.
The relay is a common problem for this cars.

a simple light failure wouldnt decrease fuel economy... perhaps the switch is bad, or has a loose wire.

I might be wrong but if it does have idle air control should be suspected. If you turn a/c on with engine running, one fan should turn on. Check for power at that fan first.

Check the battery voltage static and when the key is being turned. It should be 12.8 to 13.2 volts. You have changed everything that is responsible for a 'no spark' issue. Does it have and anti-theft system, and solid red light on the dash? https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+Honda+Accord.+No+spark ..