Ford Explorer - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
What are the probable causes of DTC P1565?
The reason of P1565 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is P1565 Speed Control Command Switch Out of Range High. An ASE certified mechanic can read this and adjust or fix it.
1/10/2024 11:57:52 PM •
2003 Ford...
•
Answered
on Jan 10, 2024
How do you replace the regulator for the power
Regulator - Power Windows - Front Door
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Remove the front door trim panel as follows:
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Remove the front door handle bezel.
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Remove the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
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Disconnect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
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Remove the 3 front door trim panel screws.
CAUTION
To avoid damaging the trim panel, do not pull directly outward to
carry out this step.
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Lift the door trim panel by pulling directly upward on the armrest
to disengage the panel clips.
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Remove the exterior mirror control switch from the front door trim
panel.
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Remove the front door speaker.
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Remove the interior molding.
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Disconnect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle
assembly:
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Release the door lock actuating rod clip.
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Position the door lock actuating rod aside.
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Remove the front door weather shield.
CAUTION
Make sure the holes in the glass bracket do not become enlarged
during the rivet removal process. If the holes become enlarged, the new
rivets may become loose, resulting in clicking noise concern.
NOTE
Some vehicles may use rivets to attach the window glass to the
window regulator assembly. Use a 4.5 mm (0.1772 in) drill bit to drill
out the glass-to-regulator rivets.
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Remove the 2 front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
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Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the
front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
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Secure the front door glass in the full up position with tape.
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Disconnect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
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Remove the 4 window regulator assembly nuts.
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Remove the window regulator assembly.
Fig. Exploded view of the front door and power window
components-2005 Explorer and Mountaineer
To install:
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Position the window regulator assembly.
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Install the 4 window regulator assembly nuts. Tighten to 89 inch
lbs. (10 Nm).
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Connect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
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Remove the tape securing the front door glass in the full up
position.
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Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the
front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets. Install the bolt
and tighten the bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), or install new rivets.
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Install the front door weather shield.
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Connect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle assembly:
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Position the door lock actuating rod into proper location.
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Attach the door lock actuating rod clip.
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Install the interior molding.
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Install the front door speaker.
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Install the front door trim panel as follows:
-
Install the exterior mirror control switch from the front door
trim panel.
-
Position the door trim panel onto the armrest to engage the panel
clips.
-
Install the 3 front door trim panel screws.
-
Connect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
-
Install the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
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Install the front door handle bezel.
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Raise the front door window glass to the full up position.
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Remove the interior door handle.
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Support the front door window glass.
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Disconnect the front door window regulator motor electrical
connector.
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Remove the equalizer bracket nuts.
Fig. Remove the equalizer bracket nuts-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
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Remove the front door window regulator by removing the rivets and
nuts.
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Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts and
then remove the motor.
Fig. Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts
and then remove the motor-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
To install:
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Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
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Tighten the regulator motor mounting bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).
12/16/2023 6:56:04 AM •
2002 Ford...
•
Answered
on Dec 16, 2023
1997 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 AWD diagram of wiring in Drivers door?
do to any electrical work remove neg battery lug first
and not blow up expensive modules.
door locks dead
or door windows
or both.
?
just one door fails?
all flush checked.?
pull battery neg lug then put back the cut wire properly ,soldered and heat shrink tubing used,
then replace all blown fuses,and put back battery neg lug last?
this car uses a GEM module to direct all that, to windows
and you do not want to blow up any GEM, ok?
lets do fuse related.
F8 maxi fuse 30amp in battery junctionbox. boom
f10 same box same amps and same maxi fuse type.
fuse 10 also blows and all door locks dead too.
so when you short out wires things die
checking fuses is always first. or CB circuit breakers, none here CB.
,
boom
5/30/2023 6:10:09 PM •
1997 Ford...
•
Answered
on May 30, 2023
2007 Ford Explorer (Eddie Bauer) Does anybody know what's wrong?
Anon (no miles odometer told)
the starter is dead?
if yes say so clearly,
starter silent, clicks, chatters or is 100% dead. silent.
starter dead has 6 causes (plus Alternator tests too)
engine dead up to 50 (valve springs broken of 24 there?)
step 1 is check fuses
#2 the jumper cable the battery and crank it over?
the new battery is now dead. discharged from excessive cranking,or learn to keep the battery charged until it starts again. once started we do alternator tests, 13v to 15vdc running at lugs of battery.
the engine shut off driving,? on the fly driving alternator bad
or fuses to it blown.
learn to use a voltmeter at the battery cranking
11vdc is par, CRANKING less means battery is weak or bad or simply discharged. a 2man test,1 cranks other measures battery lugs. all 4 lugs tight,and cleaned of rust.
2cables = 4 lugs. to fail.
we use tools and meters and tests to find what is wrong
what engine
4.0 L Cologne SOHC V6
4.6 L Modular 24-valve V8
?>??????/
VIN #8 code ?
cam chain failure?'
scans show cam timing off?
the driving to work stall sure can be the alternator dead
or just 16 year old bad spark plugs?
or 16 year old COP boots bad, sure the are that old
filters bad? clogged.
my guess (never accurate) guessing. is
when driving to work, the GEN/CHARGE/BATTERY
lamp in cluster was glowing and this is why it stalled
then didnt do the jumper cable jump starte
and see OMG all is good but the ALT /gen is dead.
and stalls again in say 1 hours, driving and battery is dead again , wash wear repeat.
5/2/2023 12:30:58 PM •
2007 Ford...
•
Answered
on May 02, 2023
2006 Ford Explorer. Intermittent fuel pump issue?
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
It is difficult to test things like relays when you have an intermittent fault because it could test okay 9 times out of 10. They are not expensive, I would swap out the fuel pump relay for a new one. If that doesn't fix it, you need and auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. They can record what is happening when things go wrong.
4/8/2023 12:20:23 PM •
2006 Ford...
•
Answered
on Apr 08, 2023
1999 Ford Explorer. Why does my car "shimmy" above 50 mph.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
It could be so many things. Look at the YouTube channel called 'Just Rolled In'. United States vehicles in terrible condition being driven into garages all across America.
It could be so many things and needs to be put up on a hoist and checked. In no particular order.
Loose wheel lugs or only 1 wheel lug
bald tires
over inflated or under inflated tires
deformed tires with bulges,
wheels out of balance
bent rims
worn tie rod ends
worn wheel bearings
broken suspension springs
failed shock absorber struts
rusted out parts on anything holding the wheels
worn sway bar bushes (called 'sway bar' for good reason)
Not an exhaustive list, but likely one of the above.
more here
https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Ford+Explorer.+Why+does+my+car+%22shimmy%22+above+50+mph
..
4/1/2023 10:23:53 PM •
1999 Ford...
•
Answered
on Apr 01, 2023
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