Chevrolet S 10 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Yes you can.

Poor man cold air intake

S-10 Forum https://www.s10forum.com > ... > V8 Discussion Jan 9, 2010 - K so i have an open air intake which look fairly good but from a performance aspect, sucking in 200 degree air is horrible. Making a Cold Air Intake Jun 10, 2008 TBI Cold Air Intake how to Jan 15, 2003 Cold air-intake for non-vortec TBI ???? Dec 22, 2011 Post your cold air setups! Jun 19, 2018 More results from www.s10forum.com ..

Where is fuse panel for a 1988 Chevrolet S10

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see your question. For that you would need a workshop manual. There are some in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Chevy+S10+2.2+torque+specs or you can search 'year make model (the part) torque specs'. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+chevy+s10+2.2+workshop+manual+pdf ....

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Yes there are three o2 sensors Bank 1 in the exhaust manifold Bank 2 in the exhaust manifold One after the Catalytic Converter. Not sure what you mean 'where is the best place to put it'? The scan tool tells you which one needs replacing by a P**** Code, or are you just replacing one for fun? Answered here on JustAnswer dot com The o2 sensors are located in the exhaust pipe. The one you are looking for is the post cat sensor. The sensor furthest back in the pipe after the catalytic converter. Mar 19, 2007

Chevy S10 Oxygen Sensor Location: Q&A Guide - JustAnswer

Jack the truck and place on supports and disconnect one of the batter cables so the power to the truck is dead. Begin by removing the transmission bell-housing support (there are two bolts and one nut. One bolt at the transmission and one bolt at the front of the engine and one nut back about 6 inches from the bolt) and remove the brace. Remove the driver side wheel. Push the rubber wheel well flap up into the engine compartment so that you can see into to engine compartment. You should see a heat shield that is in between the motor mount and the starter, remove it by taking the bolt out at the bottom of the shield on the frame (I believe its a 10 mm bolt). Pull out the heat shield by lifting it straight up and pulling towards you. From the front of the truck, you should be able to see the starter and see a nut that holds the starter to a bracket, remove this nut (8 mm nut). There is another one, but you won't be able to reach it at this time. Move back to the wheel well. You should see a bolt that holds the bracket on to the engine, remove this bolt (its either a 13 or 15 mm, I don't quite remember). You'll have to remove the battery cable from the solenoid, this can be done before or after the bracket bolt is removed, it doesn't really matter. Move to the transmission housing. Remove the inspection cover, there should be 2 bolts holding it on (10 mm bolts) and pull off the inspection cover. Now loosen the starter bolts, there are 2, one on each side of the starter (13 mm bolts). The one on the outside (driver side) may be slightly blocked by the exhaust pipe, but a wobble will work around it. (The hayes manual tells you to remove the exhaust pipe, but I was able to do it without doing so, but you can if you have the ability, it will probably mean you can get the bracket off easier). With the bolts out of the starter (one is short, driver side, the other is long, passenger side) it should drop down and rest on the transmission bell housing, don't try to pull it out yet. Go to the front of the truck and see if you can remove the remaining bracket nut, hopefully you can see it now and remove it. The bracket should come off and remove it. Now go push the starter towards the front of the truck and pull down, it should come out. There is still one wire attached, so support it as you bring it down. The wire is attached to the solenoid by a 8 mm nut, remove it and take the starter out.
The new starter will have nuts for both the solenoid and bracket, remove them before re-installing. Re-installation is pretty much the reverse. Put the solenoid wire back on, push the starter up into the bell housing, push straight up then tilt to the front of the truck and rest in in the bell housing. Reach up and place front bracket on to the starter, I remember it was easiest from the front of the truck. Put both nuts on if you can that attaches the bracket to the starter, I ended up only putting the one on the top, the bottom was to difficult and not worth the trouble (this was the second starter I put on the truck, so it missing didn't cause any issues). Now go back and put the starter bolts back in and tighten. Move to the wheel well, re-attach the battery cable to the solenoid and re-attach the bracket to the engine with the bolt. Put the heat shield back on by pushing in and sliding down and re-installing the bolt. Replace the transmission inspection cover. Make sure to pull the rubber wheel well flap back and re-install the wheel. Put the engine/ transmission bell house support back in with the bolts and nut.

This is not an easy job, but can be done with minimal tools (a metric socket set and metric wrenches and several socket extensions (a wobble helps as well)) but is very frustrating.

It appears to be a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+Chevy+S-10.+No+power+at+the+ECM+fuse ..

The firing is 1 3 4 2. From the front of engine to the back, the cylinders are numbered 1 2 3 4. Cylinders 1 and 4 are on the same coil pack. Cylinders 2 and 3 are the other coil pack.

Fig. 44: 1989 2.8L TBI engine - federal altitude





Fig. 46: 1989 2.8L TBI engine - California





Fig. 47: 1989 2.8L TBI engine - leaded fuel export without catalyst

Hope help with this (remember rated this).

CHEVY S-10 TAIL LIGHTS PROBLEM RESOLVED...It seems Chevy engineered a ground shorting clip located under the left rear bumper area. It looks like a connector for trailer wiring harness, but in actuallity is a metal shorting clip which ties 5 wires together. They are all the ground wires for the tail lights. Then one single small wire runs to ground completeing the circuit. Problem is that this one wire is not tough enough to be a strain relief for the grounding plug and over time the ground wire wears, leaving intermittent lighting problems. FIX IS TO SPLICE THE GROUND WIRE INTO ONE OF THE FIVE OTHER WIRES AND USE PLASTIC TY WRAP FOR STRAIN RELIEF. This fixes no tail lights, intermittent rear signals, and other significant problems. I just got done making this same repair on a 2000 s-10 and everything works fine. Since it is the strain on the single ground wire connected to the connector that leads to failure, it is best to tie a new ground or clip the ground wire coming out of the plug and resplice it into one of the other five wires. Does not matter which one since electrically it makes no difference; they are all gound wires. BUT only one wire completes the connection and that is the problem. Really good engineering Chevy! The location is under left rear of bed in wiring harness right before the split. The connector is blue or green. Take the cover off to see the metal shorting clip. Also note the ground wire coming out of the plug/connector and runs about 8 inches to frame. If this is not hooked up you will have tail light issues. If you register on Autozone .com you can access wiring schematics for free. BL

I need a diagram for s10 rear brake lines 4x4 4.6 liter

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Help here https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+Chevrolet+S-10+4x4+ABS+system+is+not+working But you may need an auto electrician to record what happens after a mile. My guess is that the brakes are binding and get grippy when they start heating up. Check that the caliper slides freely, but as the ABS Light is on, you need to know why? https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Fuse 2 on the right side

Chevrolet ZR2 S10 1991 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker ...

CarFuseBox https://www.carfusebox.com > chevrolet-zr2-s10-1991... Nov 30, 2022 - Chevrolet ZR2 S10 1991 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker Diagram ; 2, CIGAR LTR, 15A, Cigar Lighter and Data Link Connector (DLC) ; 3, CRUISE, 10A ... ..

My info showed this for coolant temp sensor. Two wire connector, wire colors purple and yellow.

driver side on frame rail or or back by fule tank

sounds like your fuel pump is going out. Next time it happens remove fuel cap and have someone turn ignition to the on position not crank. You should hear the fuel pump run for 2-4 second. If you don't hear it come on then try beating your gas tank hard with a rubber mallet while Ignition is in on position.listen for fuel pump to come on. If it starts after this then fuel pump it ?s.

When you first turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump to kick on. You might need someone at the fuel pump to listen for it. Any fuel injected vehicle when you first turn on the key the ECM or PCM will turn the pump on for 2-5 seconds to prime and build up the fuel pressure. If it fails to kick on then you might want to check for dual fuel pump relays. The priming relay could be bad, or there is no signal sent to turn on the pump to prime the system. I don't want to point a finger at the Idle Air Control, but its possible there is some gunk in it, in which just remove it by either a large wrench or by removing the hold down bolts and spraying carb cleaner over the needle and in the throttle body. I'm sure you've already tried holding the throttle down upon starting the truck, if so and its still hard to start then check and make sure the system is being primed. Another way to check it, is start the truck and pull the fuel pump fuese until it dies. Then attach the fuel pressure gauge which should read zero pounds. Then turn the key on and see if the gauge goes up, it should be over 40 psi. If it doesn't, then turn the key on and off a few times to see if it does, making sure you wait at least 2 seconds when you turn the key on to give the pump time to work. I have a 91 Isuzu Rodeo that uses 2 fuel pump relays, it was factory built with a 3.1 Chevy engine. Leave a comment to let me know what you find, and if it doesn't work then I'll think of another possible cause. And use a volt meter on the batter to verify 12.6 volts before starting, preferably nothing under 11.5 when cranking, but 10 volts is the bottom limit, and above or about 14 volts when the engine is idling.

S10 PICKUP , NOT BLAZER S10- , NO ENGINE TOLD NO DRIVE LINE TOLD.! NO VIN TOLD. ENGINE RUNS FINE? DRIVES FINE AND ALL OTHER THINGS WORK THIS IS ALWAY SQUESTION 1 FOR ANY ELECTRIC FAILURE. 4l60E TRANSMISSION? OR STICK SHIFT, iT MATTERS TOO. THE 4L60 E HAS VSS VEH, SPEEDS SENSOR ON THE TAIL SHAFT OF THE BOX.. no speedo cables here. this year. the cluster has 1 fuse, Marked INST-lps if blown the much of the cluster dies. means insturment lamps(LPS) the question really is , all fuses good. and if automatic trans does the VSS go to the TCM (so it can shift right) then the TCM tells the ECU speed too. then it sense speed data to the cluster. sadly the scans of the old paper book , are blurry and 100 pages long, i refuse to read all of those for all engines there or transmissions not told. NO FUSE JUST FOR IT.!! 1992 IS THE SPEEDO ONLY DEAD? AND ALL OTHER CLUSTER THINGS WORK>? OR NOT. oil gauge, fuel ,voltage meter, and odom? ,eng. temp? ALL FUSES GOOD, IS FIRST. JUST CHECK THEM ALL NOT WORRY WHICH IS WHICH. SPEEDO DEAD, OR BOUNCES OR STUCK HIGH. WHAT? ODOMETER DEAD"MILES) DEAD? OR WHAT? ING fuse must be good , goes to cluster too. the book, deep looking shows DRAC vehicle speed sensor buffer;. here it is, and it drives the cluster directly so is sensor ,wiring or the buffer bad. the signals are very weak so the board here is a Ampifier it states vss to ecm, tcm and cluster. so if the ECM cans show the VSS dead we know the DRAC is bad or the sensor left hear is dead. the red circle below is cluster INPUT VSS. CHECK ALL FUSES. i CAN'T

Find and repair the crusty ground connector. Usually a tag, bolted to the rear or front of the bodywork. Follow the loom back from a cluster to find it or consult the workshop manual.

???? S10 pickup or blazer???????? 4engines used, and not told and fuse boxes not the same no VIN tool or RPO build list told. TILT wheel or not/? buy the book service manual for both years, and figure it out. what was wrong on the 1983 column? you think cruise is going to work that old, not me, nor is it safe. fixing the brake lamps should be easy my guess is you did not wreck the stop switch you messed up the old crazy HAZARD,switch wiring , very odd then and any one would be confused seeing it. the books shows 82/83 wired the same here. cruise I have no docments those years. rare to work now, extreme rare. if you step on the brake and the wire wire WHT goes hot, then the switch is working and HAZ , switch is bad, as most are that old. the wile oddity here is how haz/brake/turn bulbs are all shared. there is no discrete brake bulb or elements there. saving money on bulbs but complex switch above. now comes my trick hamper the haz and turns levers. on and off the silly switch likes to stick 1/2 way and fail so cycling them. say 5 times each. the rust is cleared away and the contacts wake up. not many 40 year switches work or work reliable now. buy new switch I would.. the switch is here. new https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1983,s10+pickup,1.9l+119cid+l4,1060625,electrical-switch+&+relay,turn+signal+switch,4832