Chevrolet Impala - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

I tidied up your question a bit into what I think you were trying to say. Sentence run-on, with no commas, can be a problem in understanding the question, so I made about 5 sentences out of your one. :>D You said you 'tried to do a reset'. How did you do that, did you disconnect the battery? How long for? Was the key in the ignition when you reconnected? Most of your issues are due to the anti-theft system being activated, so I will put my link to fixing that at the bottom. Regarding the transmission slipping and overheating, it sounds like you are low on transmission fluid. This would cause slipping and overheating. Resetting the Anti-Theft System. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r26859529-resetting_vehicle_anti_theft_system Click Comment, below my post and let me known how you get on.

May be timing, plugs, dirty distributor, blocked jets in carbs, water in fuel

Fuels, petrol or diesel, are known as hydrocarbon (hydrogen and carbon) fuels and so when burned in air (oxygen) one of the resulting products is a considerable amount of H2O or water. Mostly this is expelled through the exhaust as vapour but at certain times, such as when the air is cold and dry and the engine and exhaust system is cool, the vapor will condense and emerge as steam and water droplets. When a vehicle has lots of short journeys, the exhaust can become waterlogged where the silencers can retain a great deal of water and are likely to be spitting water droplets almost continuously. Often the sound at the tailpipe will be more harsh than usual. Some manufacturers have a small hole at the lowest point of a silencer to allow surplus water to drain away and sometimes a mechanic will drill a hole... Spitting water and emitting steam is often seen as a sign of a failing head gasket and the confusion is understandable as it is a natural function and could be a symptom of head gasket trouble but it is a symptom that should not warrant much attention in isolation - clearly if a failing head gasket is the source of water spitting from the tailpipe, the coolant level will be mysteriously falling without obvious leakage and often the engine will suffer a misfire on starting...

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B (LA1) Middle rear of the engine, below the exhaust manifold Turn the steering wheel fully to the left. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector. Remove the CKP sensor bolt. Remove the CKP sensor. Inspect for wear, cracks, or leakage if the sensor is not being replaced. • Crankshaft position (CKP) sensors The CKP sensor B is a variable reluctance sensor. The magnetic field of the sensor is altered by a crankshaft mounted reluctor wheel that has seven machined slots, six of which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees after one of the 60 degree slots. This sensor provides the ignition control module (ICM) with 7X signals, or seven pulses for each revolution of the crankshaft. The pulse from the 10 degree slot is known as the sync pulse. Both of the sensor circuits are connected to the ignition control module (ICM). A signal converter within the ICM produces digital 3X output pulse to the powertrain control module (PCM), the 3X reference is known as the low resolution engine speed signal. The CKP sensor A contains a hall-effect switch. A hall-effect switch is a solid state switching device that produces a digital ON/OFF pulse when a rotating element passes between the sensor tip and a magnet. This rotating element is called an interrupter ring or blade. In this case the interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows and is part of the crankshaft damper assembly. This sensor provides the PCM with 24X signals, or 24 identical pulses per crankshaft revolution. The 24X signal is used for enhanced smoothness and idle stability at a lower calibrated RPM. The PCM supplies the sensor with a 12-volt reference, low reference, and signal circuit.

195-70-15

Check fuse first. If ok then likely speed control module or blower motor itself is faulty.

Generally, trucks, vans and large cars with big engines will have rear-wheel drive. Smaller, economy and compact cars are most often front-wheel drive. But you don't have to guess which one you have - find out for yourself.
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1. Understand that front-wheel drive means the power from the engine and the transmission goes to the front wheels; rear-wheel drive means the power goes to the rear wheels. Four-wheel, or all-wheel, drive means all four wheels are powered.
   

2. Open the hood.
   

3. Find the front of the engine. The front of the engine is always where the belts are located.
   

4. Look to see if the front of the engine is by the fender (side of the car). If so, then you have front-wheel drive.
   

5. Check to see if the front of the engine is by the radiator and the grill (front of the car). If so, then you have rear-wheel drive.
   

6. Look under the car near each front wheel. If you see an axle with a rubber boot (called the CV boot) on either end going into the wheel, then you have front- wheel drive.
   

7. Look under the car between the rear wheels. If you see a large, metal, pumpkin- shaped thing (it's called the differential) with two axles coming out either side, then you have rear-wheel drive.
   

8. Check both under the hood for the position of the engine and under the car for the axles to be sure, because not every car follows the rules for engine position and front- or rear-wheel drive (see Tips below for examples of cars with variations on this rule).
   

Good Luck

Backside of the engine before the catalytic converter

The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/

you have to take off the plastic all around the gear shifter. You can wedge a screw driver carefully around the edges and pry the plastic off then there is a screw on the shifter take that off and slide the top off and then take off the rubber until the whole shifter is exposed then you will see in the cavity on the right side a little metal round tab on a spring that you have to push in with a screw driver and it will release the shifter. Good luck

after pulling my hair out for 2 years and sinking a lot of money on unessasary parts, (trying to get my check engine light off and stay off). I removed the throttle body from the manifold, and wha...lah... I immediately seen the problem< and new the light would go off and stay off,and my visit to the echeck would be the last.(for two yrs. anyways). behind the throttle body there is an exhaust port which leads to the egr valve. to me its a poor engineering design, because it is like a trap on your kitchen sink, its about a 70 degree pipelike angle which trapped carbon deposits and builds up over time. causing little or no air flow to the egr valve. it is a pain to clean it but a man gotta do what a man gotta do. keep unplugging it. also take off the egr valve and clean the rest of the port from there. I kept up until I could easily blow and feel air coming through. this whole process start to finished , took about 3 hrs. you may have to get creative in your cleaning< I nused a coat hanger< bent an end of a small screwdriver<for digging,used brake clean,carb cleaner, and air. what a relief ... its finally over.. good luck

Here you go

It would be about 15 inches in front of the battery, and 18 inches down. You'll see it coiled up along with some other wires, even though its adequately hidden. But if it is not there, look behind the bumper. Otherwise there is a possibility your car did not come with a block heater.

To fold down, follow these steps: 1. There is a loop located in the middle of the back seat - pull it forward and the bottom part of the rear seat will fold down 2. Wedge the the back seat, and it should not give you any trouble in folding down 3. To ensure that the seat goes all the way down- remove the headrest. If your seat can not be folded-down, follow these steps to remove it: 1. Put some pressure on the bottom cushion of the back seat. 2. To release the bottom seat, pull the T handles, and then remove the cushion 3. There will be some bolts and screws on the bottom of the seat - remove them, and then you can pull out the seat.

Follow these steps to reset the security system on your 2006 Impala: • Get in the driver's seat, and put the key into the ignition and turn it to the ON position • Let it be in the same position for 10 minutes • Repeat the process two more times, and the security system will stop acting up. Remember, if your light power up with the ignition and not with a separate lever, you would have to put a charger on the battery as 30 minutes of this process may drain it out of a reasonable amount of juice.

Some cars have an interlock between the Shift lever and the ignition key. Make sure you have the shift lever all the way into the Park position.

First fold down the rear head restraints by pressing the button on the side of the head restraint. Now you can fold your seat down in either of these two ways: 1. Pull the button on the top of the seat to unlock it from its position; you will notice a raised tab when the seat is unlocked 2. Depending on the type of seat you have, you can lower it by pulling a lever on the right side of the rear cargo area. Remember, the seat belts should not be fastened when you attempt to lower the seat.

Here are the specifications you seek: • Install new hub bolts and torque them 96 lb-ft • 2/3rd Caliper Bracket bolts get coated with Loctite and is to be torqued to 133 ft-lb • A new axle nut to be installed and torqued at 155 lb-ft

The diagram should be available ion the panel above the radiator, In case its not there, you can refer to the following image: