Buick Cars & Trucks - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Your best bet would be to have a qualified repair shop hook up diagnostic tool to check DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes an diagnose the problem . Sounds like you may not have knowledge on this an you could make the problem worse .

Buick Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago

3.6L V6 Buick Lacrosse (Allure) CXS, 2006: The usual place for the power steering pressure hose to leak copious amounts of fluid is at the pump-end fitting. Don't bother trying to replace the teflon seal on the outside of it in an attempt to stop the leak. This fitting has a hidden internal seal that is designed to allow the metal part of the hose to float in the fitting even after the fitting is properly tightened. The only lasting repair is to replace the hose. On the 3.6 engine, this job is more difficult than average because the hose is a long multi-segment affair that wraps all around the subframe. Some pro shops are even hesitant to take it on, possibly because of poor GM instructions. It takes about 3 hours of labor, unless you have done it before. GM's removal and installation instructions are misleading and confusing; some might say just plain erroneous. They presume a GM hose is being installed, which apparently is not like the original hose, and that requires additional parts and effort. The solution is to install an aftermarket hose such as Edelmann PN 92226; the brand you choose really does not matter, they are all the same. The GM procedure also calls for removing motor mount bolts and lifting the engine. I found that to be unnecessary.

Remove the right side wheel and splash shield, which is held on by three plastic push pins. Undo the two steering rack heat shield snaps, using needle nose pliers to reach into the small space, and remove the shield . Take lots of pictures to remind yourself how the hose is routed around the subframe. You may ask yourself how it can possibly be removed; I know I did. Disconnect both ends of the hose. The pump end is best reached with a stubby length 18mm wrench. Despite appearing to be tight in there, the rack end is easy to loosen with a regular 18 mm open end wrench. The 18mm fitting you want to loosen is the one closest to the firewall. Very important: unhook and remove all of the plastic clips than hold the hose assembly in place, unhook the clips that retain a wire bundle to the assembly, and slide off all of the protective sheathings and cushion rings. From underneath, pull the pump end of the hose down under the subframe, and let it hang there. This will allow the metal sections of the hose to start to come away from the subframe rails. Begin to work the rack end of the hose outward toward the wheel well; it is tight in there, the end of the hose has a convoluted metal section, and and at first it may seem impossible to get that past the exhaust down pipe and out using the small space between the rack and the engine block, with the metal section of the return hose also getting in your way. Don't give up; it just takes patience. As the hose assembly comes out into the wheel well, you will be able to gradually turn the metal mid-section of the hose and feed it under the A/C compressor. You are basically turning the whole hose assembly counterclockwise (as viewed from above) in a series of steps until it is out. Eventually, with careful twisting and turning, it will come out. The key is to use the clear space under the A/C compressor and forward to the radiator to maneuver it. With the old hose on the floor under the car, study how it is laid out, and what sections lay along what parts of the subframe. Put the new hose on the floor, and orient it exactly the same. Follow the instructions that came with the new hose to install the included o-ring on the flare fitting at the rack end. I like to shrink a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the metal flare to protect the o-ring from cuts as it's stretch over it. Once the o-ring is in place, pull the heat-shrink off and discard it. Protect the hose fittings with caps or tape to keep them clean while feeding the hose into position. Starting at the rack end fitting, begin feeding the hose: From under the car, find the gap that's underneath the A/C compressor, between the front of the engine block and the front aluminum subframe cross rail. Feed the hose out toward the wheel well through that gap. Once you get the convoluted metal end piece through there, you can start to turn and maneuver the hose assembly clockwise. Going a little at the time, it can be worked into place, basically following the reverse of the removal. Maybe it's learning curve, but for me the new one went in better than the old once came out. Verify the the o-ring is still on the rack-end fitting, lube it with ATF, and hand start the threads into the rack until you are sure it is threading in properly, and it is not cross-threaded. Tighten it to no more that 20 lb-ft. The pump end fitting already has a white teflon seal on the outside, so all you need to do is lube it, start the threads by hand, and tighten it securely. . I hope this is write-up is helpful. Good luck with the repair!

2005 Buick... | Answered on Dec 05, 2019

One thing is missing; Fuel, Spark, Compression and air. Check which one and repair the problem.

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Dec 05, 2019

The service and repair manual with diagram will provide you all you need to fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com/

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Dec 03, 2019

The only way to bypass is to have your PCM custom reprogrammed. That'll cost more than it would cost to fix the root problem with your anti-theft system.

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Dec 02, 2019

nope you have to replace them.when brake booster diaphram leaks you cant plug them.i have bought one at salvage yard in good shape.until i got a new one.get your brake booster from inside salvage yard where they stock them inside out the weather.dont take any brake booster off old outside cars been in all kinds bad weather. there vacuum diaphram probably dried up will leak also.

1999 Buick... | Answered on Dec 01, 2019

Could be a clogged radiator or defective hose

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Dec 01, 2019

When I had mine a local car shop got it going again. Try O'Rielly's and if they don't ask them where to try to get one. I have gotten parts through Ford also for my jag.

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Nov 30, 2019

Do you have keyless entry ?
The remote keyless entry system performs the following functions:
• Locking the vehicle doors
• Unlocking the vehicle doors
• Opening the rear compartment lid

Rear Compartment Lid Release Circuit Description
The BCM receives a signal via Class II from the PCM indicating the position of the transaxle range switch. When you press the release button on the RKE transmitter, a signal is sent from the remote control door lock receiver through circuit 377 to the BCM. Then, the BCM sends a ground signal through circuit 253 to the rear compartment lid release relay. The relay receives power from the DOOR LOCKS fuse. When the relay receives the ground from the BCM, the relay's internal switch closes sending B+ (via circuit 56) to the rear compartment lid lock release actuator. A ground is always supplied to the actuator through circuit 350. When B+ is received at the actuator through circuit 56, the rear compartment lid releases.

You could jumper pins at the rear compartment lid release relay , this would open it .
Rear Compartment Lid Release Relay
Behind the IP compartment, attached to the underside of the cross-car beam . Need to pull glove box out .

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Nov 30, 2019

Assuming yours has the the 3.6 V6 engine you have 2. The bulging section of exhaust pipe bolted directly to each exhaust manifold.

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Nov 29, 2019

its the control head where the heater controls are its a complete unit

Buick LeSabre... | Answered on Nov 28, 2019

torq to 111ft lbs, back off 45 degrees then torq to 184 ft lbs this should be good

Buick Cars &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2019

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