Acura Cars & Trucks - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It's most likely the fact that there's an anti-syphon trap in the filler pipe.

Look for a big fuse on the positive lead of the battery.

Can you please elaborate what isnt working? Is the blower fan not blowing? Is the temperature not getting cold? Is the HVAC control module not powering on? Is the a/c compressor not cycling on? If you can answer those questions, I can help you further diagnosing your a/c issue.

If the bare glass is needed to be replaced, there should be 4 screws. 2 on each side at the front and rear that needs to be removed. Should be fairly easy to access and remove from the inside with the roof closed.

If you need a handsfreelink for bluetooth phone connection to the vehicle, I would look for aftermarket alternatives, or maybe even used units. I would err caution with this option as these modules fail commonly. If the HFL module is causing parasitic draw problem, I would just disconnect the module to prevent further draw.

dealer auto store online search junkyard

2019 if under warranty bring to dealer -ice build up could have damaged gear

My guess would be a burnt fuseable link. Closely inspect the main wires coming off of the battery and distribution center for a taped up bulge.

open link and follow diagnostics toward repairs https://www.obd-codes.com/p0344

Apparently it does. https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+acura+tl+starter+relay+location ..

no info generic answer if directional move lever off if hazards push button off if check engine have scanned for trouble code

Check fuses first . Then go under and clean a spot on the gas tank that you can touch or hold a bare wire from the tank to a clean ground on the frame. have someone turn the key on to see if the gauge works with the wire on there . If it does you have a bad ground , if not you might have to drop the tank to look further. have a look at any wires you can find that go to it too.You might find a broken one . Chuck

You don't mention the year of your Acura. If it's an older model, you may have a bad ground on the light socket...or a corroded/broken wire to the same socket.

It is called a 'Waypoint', and is found using the Search feature. This must all be covered in the manual for your brand new vehicle. The Navigation Manual is in the link. https://owners.acura.com/vehicles/information/2022/MDX/manuals ..

CODE P1203 CYLINDER NUMBER 3 MISFIRE CODE P1300 RANDOM MISFIRE DETECTED. POSSIBLE CAUSE BAD SPARK PLUGS OR FAULTY WIRES.CHANGE FUEL FILTER CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS. MORE THAN 1 CYLINDER MISFIRE COULD BE LEAN FUEL MISFIRE.

The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.

Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.

At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.

Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.

You mean brake caliper piston?
Front or back?

Before jacking the wheels off the ground, use an appropriate socket with a solid drive size (1/2 inch drive usually works) ratchet or drive handle, and bang it with a sizable rubber mallet to loosen the lugs. In extreme situations, penetrating oil or WD-40 can be applied and let set for a few minutes before trying...

Brake pad i them selves are a fairly easy job. However, to do the job correctly the rotters must be turned on a lathe. If you take the rotors off and bring them to a shop then you should change the barrings, the barrings must be packed with grease and reinstalled all this is simple but takes skill. you can also just buy new rotors and then just turn the old ones at your leasure for use in the future. But that said, to change the pads you will need a "C" clamp, a screw driver and some break cleaner. open the hood and take the cover off the master break cylinder. if you can remove some of the fluid. as you depress the wheel cylinder fluid will build up in the master cylinder resivware and over flow, you might be able to catch this with rags. Don't let this get on the paint. You may also need a set of allen wrenches. use the allen wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the break assembly in place, with the bolts all the way out remove the assembly by rocking it back and forth. once off remove the pads (pay close attention to any clips and the position of the pads there could be a difference between the inside and out side, left or right). after the pad are off place the "C" clamp over the puck and slowly tighten until it is all the way in, just hand tight, don't crank hard or fast, take your time. this is the easy part. after it is in remove the clamp and install the pads in the revers order mentioned, tighten down the bolts real tight. after all the pads are replaced the brake fluid will look real yucky. and rusty, pump the break peddle and see if you get a good peddle. you should as long as you did not remove the lines. use the break cleaner to clean off any grime or dust on the rotters and pads.

key --ignition switch--solenoid --failure