The electric start does absolutely nothing when depressed. In neutral, lights are operable, and pull start worked, until the pull start disengaged. I am in need of your help. I really dont want to go and royally mess the ATV up

Check the manual. Some have an interlock involving holding a brake on, hand brake, foot brake or parking brake. Or ask the local guy?

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+honda+rancher+400+manual

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Sure it's in neutral? Maybe tenants off.

does it die when you give it gas

Hey Ronald,
Wit the info you have provided, it might be the ignition switch..- not letting the engine start while jumping the solenoid.. no neutral light.all fuses good,,etc...
Take the switch off and take it to the dealer and have them check it electrically...

Hi - you've got a few deals on those 110cc's. There is a safety device, usually mounted to the frame under the seat - but before you go that far - make sure there's a key - if bypassed already and it has a switch, etc. you have to make sure power that is coming from the battery is going through past the key or switch -


If you have the key - seems operational - there's a few other things you need to know before going any further - on the last one I had there's an interlock attached to the right handlebar brake lever - when you squeeze the right brake lever - there will be post that you can push down to hold the brake lever in - on some at least - the brake lever has to be pulled in for the bike to start -



Those aren't my markings - just make sure the lever is pulled in - that outpost will keep it in place - but as long as you have that lever pulled in you can move on.

There's a kill switch here - make sure it's pointing in the right direction - I believe #2 is the kill switch. It's hard to see in the pic, but you'll want that lever opposite of the marking with an X or pointed to whichever one looks like a complete circle.


Your key is on, or at least power is to the switch and going out - your right brake lever is pulled in - and the kill switch on left handle bar is facing right direction - give the start button a try. If you get absolutely nothing - and FYI - your lights if functional should be on or be able to be to test the key by turning all the way forward/that's on + lights, whereas setting just before that is just 'on' - if you get nothing - no lights, nada - close to the positive post on the battery you should see an inline fuse that looks like this - I know it's hard to see - file quality starts out low on this one - but it's in the middle. Word to the wise - those fuses do go out normally, etc. corrosion, use, wear & tear - but if it's already blown proceed with caution - electrical issues are the main culprit - and if you put a new fuse in and it blows immediately - you have another issue. Good Luck and All The Best, Justin McCartney 17 South Industries

Did you try pushing in brake are clutch? and have you checked to make sure fuses are not blown.

Make sure your engine kill switch is on. It is easy for it to get turned off with out the operator knowing about it.

Clutch not disengageing or engine idle speed to high clutch may not be disengageing from engine speed to high

Faulty starter solenoid or relay possibly

I had a similar problem. pull start worked no problem, and starter only sometimes. turns out the starting system as a whole (starter, old wires, solenoid etc) were drawing so much power that it wasn't allowing much for power for the coil and spark. it was too weak