More info would be nice, but,...
It's probably carbureted, if so, First things first, is there a petcock (valve on the tank? Are you sure it's on? If it is, Move the quad into a well-ventilated area, shut off the fuel, preferably by the valve on the tank. (If there is no valve, pinch the fuel line), pull the fuel line off the carburetor, then try draining a small amount of fuel into a gas can, watching how much fuel comes out, then replace the fuel line, ensuring it's on all the way. If the stream of fuel was about the diameter of the inside of the hose, your problem is probably downstream, in the carburetor. (I would look at the float being either stuck or out of adjustment, then see if there is something stuck in the orifice the float's needle valve rests against.) If the stream is more of a fast or slow drip, something is plugging your fuel system. The first thing I'd look at is the filter.
All Control Panel Items\
Backup and Restore\
then choose "RESTORE COMPUTER TO EARLIER TIME' and follow dialog. If system requires to make backup first then authorise it to make backup, you may need it later.
Hi Tiffany the best thing u can do is youtube go to the website and type in blower motor replacement and there are tons of videos but there all not going to b the same but I'll bet there's one for your car have a grand day regards Chris
Once you have disassembled the motor and pulled the armature from the field windings you will need to have an ohm meter. Set the meter to OHMS and then touch the red lead to the winding lead on one end and the black lead to the winding on the other end and if the windings are still good you should be a 0.00 reading or very close depending on the resistance. The reading should be close to the same as touching the red and black leads together. This means that there is a complete circuit end to end and the winding is not broken. IF the meter does not give you that reading you will have a broken winding.
Check all fuses and if good you will have to pull the covering from the rear hatch to get at the wires so you can check with a test light or volt meter to see that you are getting voltage when the wiper switch is activated. If there is no voltage try to see if the wire is damaged somewhere or if the switch itself has gone bad. If there is voltage them the motor may be burned out. You will have to have the things that you find replaced if bad.
The home heater setting will depend on where you live. If you have freezing temperatures, I would not set it below 40 degrees. A heater in the crawlspace itself should be one that has a setting that will automatically turn it on at no lower than 30-40. Usually they will have a turn on temp and a shutoff temp that is set by the manufacturer. Make sure you have all pipes in crawl space insulated and if there are exposed pipes in the crawl space I would definitely put the heater close by or use heated pipe tape and try to insulate them to keep from having any freezing. Be sure to close all foundation vents for the winter to keep the cold air out and then open them again in the spring to allow for cross thru ventilation.
no, it is per car, not per team surely. Here is some reading for you.
Competitors are allowed only a limited number of tyre sets during a race event: thirteen dry, four intermediate, three wet. Each tyre must be marked with a unique identifier for tracking and scrutinising during a race event. During the practice sessions drivers are limited to the use of three sets of dry tyres, and certain sets must be returned to the supplier before the second and third sessions. If qualifying and starting the race on dry tyres, drivers who complete a lap during the third period of qualifying (the top ten) must start the race on the tyre set with which they recorded their fastest time during the second period. Any cars that qualified outside the top ten may start the race on any remaining set of tyres. Cars must race on any two dry compounds during a race unless intermediate or wet tyres have been used by that car in that race.
Hi, Steve, I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK & RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND & WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about ScootersTao Tao ATV wont start Fix it here http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://www.taotaopartsdirect.com/collections/lancer-150 TAOTAO QUANTUM 150 Owner Manual
When a municipality has a Water Main break the work that follows introduces so much debris into the adjacent lines that most filters are coated, overwhelmed and can't stop the sludge that is being forced through them and you will find the harder compounds, ie: calcium deposits, concrete particles & actual rock debris, although microscopic in size, in the water control solenoids of the new appliances we have today. It only takes one tiny little hard particle to jam the plunger in a solenoid and stop it from opening or closing. I feel confident in saying that your machine is not damaged but the clean-out of it may require a Technician that the City is Libel for paying, to fix your machine if the task is too complicated for your skill level. As with any new machine, cut all power to it and let it rest for ten minuets before powering back up to allow it to run it's own diagnostic troubleshooting program. It might give you a Fault code that will tell you exactly what's wrong and it could even clear the fault itself. I hope that helps.