Dryers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Could be control board, or a fuse or thermostat, or improper voltage.

LG Dryers | Answered 7 minutes ago


You have probably broken the element. From use, they become brittle. Moving the machine made it snap.

Kenmore Dryers | Answered 1 hour ago


Timer or start switch most likely bad.

Dryers | Answered 3 hours ago


Whole switch has to be replaced.

Dryers | Answered 3 hours ago


Remove control board and look at bottom side. There will probably be a burned spot near a large relay. The copper trace is not heavy enough to handle the current. Poor design. You can fix it by either soldering across the broken trace or replace the trace with a 14 or 16 gauge wire. I used an insulated 14 gauge wire on mine and soldered one end to the pin on the connection for the relay on the solder side of the circuit board and the other end to the solder connection of the burned trace, totally replacing the copper trace.

Dryers | Answered 11 hours ago


What type of dryer is it?

Dryers | Answered Yesterday


I have been searching for hours for a manual for my LD504 dryer. If anyone has a link to one, please please share!!

Dryers | Answered Yesterday


When even a small additional load is applied or removed to a circuit powered by a generator it will result in a surge due to a load causing a drop in revolutions and the governor increasing the speed.

Not sure why the switch should default to on but it clearly isn't suitable for use with a light fitting.

The circuit you provided is not comprehensive enough to be of any practical use. When making modifications to wiring it is important to know the circuit and to understand how it works.

If you haven't a complete wiring diagram and are unable to figure out the fan circuit, it would be wise to make a new circuit for your light fitting after thoroughly insulating the existing wiring.

Dryers | Answered 2 days ago


Hi azwaverid!

I just had a similar problem with my ceiling fan, not sure if I have the same model as you (the fan was in the house when I bought it). I do have the exact same pull chain switch (K.T.E 2035080).

I went to a big home improvement store and the salesman gave me some 3-way switch and guaranteed it would work. The switch had only 3 wires, not 4 like the original. Can you guess what happened next? That's right, their part didn't work.

Being an engineer, I could not admit defeat. I consulted with other engineers I work with, and they pointed me to a "mom & pop" electronics store close to my house. I went to Centennial Electronics in Colorado Springs, CO. The sales staff didn't have experience with this problem, but at least helped me and offered suggestions.

I ended up buying a Philmore Pull Chain Switch for $2.51 after tax. This worked perfect! Just be sure to place the wires in the right slots. On my fan, the following positions and wire colors were: L - Orange, 1 - Yellow, 2 - Purple, and 3 - Blue (I just matched them up the same as the K.T.E. switch colors & positions).

Hope this helps!
Bob

P.s. The exact part I used was:
Philmore No. 30-9152 (UPC code: 0 38975 39152 6). The box says (everywhere you see a semi-colon is a line break): Philmore PULL CHAIN SWITCH; L-1-2-3, L-2-3, L-1-3, L-1-2, PUSH-IN TERMINAL; 6A-125V AC, 3A-250V AC; Made in Taiwan No. 30-9152; LKG Industries - Rockford, IL

Oasis Hunter 54'... | Answered 2 days ago


There should be one inside console area

Kenmore Dryers | Answered 2 days ago


I CERTAINLY WOULD THINK SO BUT IT MIGHT PLUG UP FASTER THEN ANY OTHER ROUTE YOU COULD FIND THAT DID NOT GO DOWN BEFORE GOING UP AND OUT

Kenmore Dryers | Answered 2 days ago

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