Air Tools & Compressors - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

CHECK WITH A GOOD LOCAL GUNSMITH WESTERN FIELD WENT OUT OF BUSINESS MANY YEARS AGO . BUT PERHAPS THE SMITHY WILL KNOW WHAT A CROSS OVER PART WOULD WORK

For every car ever made??? :>)

Google

year make model fuses

then look at the images tab

try the sears website

Hello, W/D here.

The better way is to disconnect the air line from the gun, and place several drops of light oil in the gun while holding the trigger down. Oil daily. Then, re-connect the hose, and fire a few nails into scrap wood.
Another trick is to spray your nails with WD-40 before you load them into the gun.
Best regards, --W/D--

compressor shuts down on low sump pressure

fixya doesnt sell products

I have both the DC616 and 618 and have used them sucessfully for about three years. Two main things go wrong. There is a drive belt that breaks (drives the spool that give the energy to drive in the nails), second are two small rubber bands on either side of the drive head that break. The bands can be accessed by taking off the front silver cover, the drive belt is access by spliting the case. Make sure you are using the correct nails or the drive pin may become bent and will jamb repeatedly. Hope that helps!

Google (mastercraft)(58-9087-6)(manual) without parens.

The seal # 390140-00 installed on the upper part of the cylinder will allow air to come out the nose of the gun as well as the bulkhead orings as you suspect. Here is what I do the check the fit of the clear or vinyl orings on the inner side of the bulkhead. Remove both of the orings from the cylinder that come into contact with the inner side of the bulkhead. INstall one oring on the cylinder first then slip bulkhead on to check for snug /firm fit. If the one oring feels loose add a couple turns of Teflon tape under the oring and repeat test until contact feels firm but not too tight. Then remove this oring and try the other oring for fit and do the same if it feels too loose. When the second oring feels good go ahead and install both orings and re-assemble. It should work. I do not like the vinyl orings that come in the kit, I usually order buna orings to fit from "orings and more" on the internet, they sell orings by size so you must order the size needed. If you do not know how to measure the orings for size, take the orings to a hydraulic store or a bearing shop and they will tell you what size they are. vinyl orings do not last like the buna . Good luck

The issue of low pressure that you experience is usually caused by air leaking from various fittings and or broken valves or valve plate gaskets. While the compressor is filling, spray soapy water on all fittings checking for leaks. If no leaks are found then suspect the head area of the pump. Usually when valves are bad , you will notice that air is blowing out of the intake port. With air filter removed and tank empty of air, start compressor and feel for good suction at intake, as the compressor reaches maximum pressure, air will begin to blow out of the intake and you will not feel suction. If this is the case, replace valves and or valve plate gaskets. ;good luck with ;your repair.

Air leaking out the nose is indication that the orings at the bulkhead are leaking or the cylinder seal is no longer holding back pressure. If the driver piston is pushed down when you connect air to gun then the cylinder seal is bad, of however the piston stays at the top of the cylinder when air is connected, then bulkhead orings are bad. The bulkhead orings are located around the outside of the cylinder and make contact with the outer housing of the gun. Good luck

I do not have a picture, but maybe I can describe how to assemble. The rear of the regulator has a removable plug the reveals two parts, a spring and a valve with rubber seat, the spring goes against the plug and pushes the valve against the seat on the body of the manifold. I find that this valve gets stuck on the plug and will not work correctly, easy to repair however, just remove the valve from the plug and apply grease so that spring can work forcing the valve against the body of the manifold.
Reinstall the rear plug and verify that the valve moves by pushing down on part of the valve that sticks out from the adjustment knob side. Now for the knob side of the regulator. Insert the adjust screw into the housing with the square head first. This square head is what the adjustment knob turns to adjust the pressure. When installing this part, turn the adjust mut so that there is pressure on the heavy spring. Next on the adjustment screw is the heavy spring followed by the round plastic piston that has a lip seal on the outer groove. The piston lip seal goes installed with the open lip facing the body of the manifold and away from the heavy spring.
There is a small oring that is installed on the round plastic piston at the center. This small oring makes contact with the valve that you installed from the rear of the regulator. So that's it. I hope that you can make it work with this description. I have worked on many of these regulators and find that most of the problems arise from the valve on the back side of the regulator, getting stuck on the rear nut due to water. Next problem is the round piston with the lip seal cracks due to too mush tension when cranking down on the pressure adjustment knob. Finally the third problem is the small oring at the center of the round plastic piston will get out of shape and not seal against valve installed from the rear causing leak at the adjustment knob. Good luck

Max roofing nailers and other brands will have this problem if the feed spring is weak or missing. The other situation that causes the feeder to turn is when the nailer is missing a protective cover. Usually covers in this area of the nail gun keeps debris out of the feeder area and prevents the feeder from popping out if place. Finally, if the feeder has a broken ear or guide, it can move past the glide area and get stuck. Good luck with your repair.