Question about 1997 kawasaki ZZR 400
Unable to start @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle
Kawasaki ZXR400 Service Manual Supplement
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Posted on Jul 29, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the security of the coils to the body, remove the coils and sand down the parts where the coil and body contact each other, dab with grease once they're shiny and re-bolt the coil(s) to the body. Also check the connection of the condenser (near the distributor) and all the wiring to and from coils, distributor and battery and check all the HT leads, if the leads are quite old it's a good idea to replace them anyway they're only cheap. Tell me how you get on, will advise further if this doesn't fix it
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
Stock plug is NGK CR9E, but Denso Irridium IU27 is best. Cost more but better economy and starting.
Any manufacturer will have the equivalent NGK plug for your bike on their chart, with two or three types for your preferred riding style.
Posted on May 07, 2010
Hi there and welcome to fixya,
I can share with your sentiment there. Here's are some of my ideas, you'll need to be patient enough though.
the jets you used, is it the stock replacement or a bigger one? I would recommend using the stock jets to eliminate the possibility of it being the cause. Tune your engine using a timing light, synchronize the carburetors so each intake manifold receives the same amount of fuel on throttle. Drain the fuel form the carb reservoir (or clean the whole carbs including the jets). Adjust the air-fuel mix to standard or 2.5 -3.5 turns out. Check for hose dents and check for proper plug firing.
Make sure cylinder compression is also good otherwise you'll suffer power loss on peak RPMs at high speeds.
The above process should eliminate any possibility with regards engine idling and poor idling.
To answer your question regarding valve clearance you'll need to download the manual to assist you on dissassembly. You'll need to remove the top cover on the engine and use a feeler gauge for adjustments. I'm not sure how to find the TopDeadCenter of this particular bike but the manual should.
Hope this in any helps you out,
Posted on Dec 21, 2010
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