Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for weeks, months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future use a fuel stabilizer before putting your bike in storage for the winter.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://motorcycleviews.com/maintain/psstart01.htm How To Get Stored Motorcycle Running Motorcycle Repair Kawasaki ZXR400 Service Manual Supplement OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
I haven't had a motorcycle in a long time,but all the bikes I remember had the VIN on the frame,where the forks attach(the short tube on the front of the frame that holds the bearings for the front wheel to pivot left or right).This might be a little tough to see on a sport bike,but it should be visible without taking anything apart(so it is easy for the police,DMV,or an inspection station to verify).
Hi, Anne I would love to help you but due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset circuitry was melted. I need to know the size of the first ZZR and what you mean by "END CANS" please click on the word "COMMENT" below and provide this information in the box that will open and then click on the green comment box in the bottom right-hand corner after it posts I will receive an "ALERT" icon that will allow me to respond to your information. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hi, Anonymous always check fuel flow first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly.
3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
4. Fuel valve/petcock not in the on or reserve position.
5. Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing*
6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn*
7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing.
8. Fuel pump not working*
9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing.
10. Carburetor inlet clogged.
11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck.
12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.
* If equipped or applicable.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day. Zzr 400 carb and starting problems Kawasaki Forums http://www.zzr-rg.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7322 Kawasaki ZXR400 Service Manual Supplement OEM Parts for Kawasaki Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles
gday there your problem might be that your fuel pump might have stopped running ,these can sieze up running empty ,it may have a blown a fuse ,so that might be something to check ,if not it may be one for the dealer cheers pete
It is better to replace it with a performance version. K&N filters sells them on-line and you will be very pleased with the results. Changing your spark plugs to Denso Iridiums will also provide a little power boost (HP up) and improve fuel economy.
Hello and welcome to Fixya, It can be done, one of our competitor's race teams did it with some pretty drastic modification's. Its definitely a challenge.But seen it accomplished. I could give you there info, they may be able to give you some hints. Let me know, Thanks for using Fixya
If you mean the bottom of the tank then one goes to the carb and one is just a breather/overflow that gets ran down out of the way and doesn't connect to anything. If you are talking about the carbs then one goes to tank and one goes to the vacuum
Fuel system is clogged,..GARAUNTEED!! Take off the fuel tank,to get to the swirl bowl. Inside the swirl bowl,you will find a fuel filter,which SHOULD be completely white,and most likely,its not! Get a new filter and install it. While you have the tank off,disconnect the injector line,and remove and clean the injector with carb cleaner and pressured air.Put everything back together,and then add an INLINE FILTER to the feed line on the fuel pump which is located on the left hand side,running from the shut off valve,to the fuel pump. These are awesome quads,but the fuel injection system is a pain in the a$$. Good Luck!
Given the year of the bike there are a few things you will need to look over
*Check your break pads for even wear
*Change your break fluid
*Check your clutch lever (it should move about a millimeter before it actatually grabs the clutch)
*That bike has carborators. They need to be cleaned (could be part of problem 1 and 2)
*Check the fuel tank for rust. (there are treatment kits if it is rusted)
*your throttle cable should be lubed with cable lube(part of problem 1)/(when you pull the throttle cable then let go it should snap back closed)
*get higher octain fuel (this will help with problem 2)