kawasaki Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Rockwood26 for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered 6 hours ago


Hi, Michael for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Wiring+diagram+2004+Kawasaki+ZZR+1200&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiq2ou3jK3lAhXmtlkKHQQiBAYQsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
http://classiccycles.org/1852/597943.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375248/Kawasaki-Zzr1200.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/zzr1200-2004-owners-manual-68887

2004 kawasaki... | Answered 12 hours ago


Hi, Tholliman73 before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom, etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/6-new-member-introductions/300064-tail-lights-keep-blowing-fuse.html
https://www.kawiforums.com/2005-2006-zx-6r/133104-my-rear-brake-light-fuse-keeps-blowing-wtf.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375187/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1600-Classic.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/vulcan-1600-classic-2005-owners-manual-68868

2005 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Paulo I would start with a proper tune up, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Tune-VN800-95-06-Vulcan/dp/B00NFRZXMA
Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Spark Plug Replacement Tank Removal
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2002 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Bonsaicampbe for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/56-vulcan-800/42522-how-install-tachometer.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwNXARQKYAg
KAWASAKI VN900 CLASSIC Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic Owner Manual

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-7r-forum/106457-no-headlights-high-low-everything-else-works-searched.html
Predator ZX10r Fixed headlights relay junction box fried DIY Bypass...
https://www.slideshare.net/jksme45mmd/2005-kawasaki-zx1000c2-ninja-zx10r-service-repair-manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2004 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 10R Owner Manual

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Ryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test "WARNING" you can have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 15, 2019


Hi, Rosetta I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27832
https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/kawasaki-sportbikes/16058-zx6r-beeping-sound-coming-gas-tank.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/935394/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-6r.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/850472/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-6r.html

2001 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 14, 2019


Hi, James for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Transmission+filler+plug+location+2003+kawasaki+KLR+650&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx7Nb92ZzlAhWmslkKHS1EBM0QsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItjSZBHebGE
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/928363/Kawasaki-Klr650.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/850357/Kawasaki-Klr650.html

2003 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 14, 2019


Check the tickover nixture is correct first.

kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 01, 2019


Hi, Nicholas the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to the normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/136538-fuel-pump-failure.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gk6hilmqufI
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1037490/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic-Fi.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1356799/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic.html

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 30, 2019


My 2006 vulcan 900 won't start after I replaced starter and battery. It makes a tickering sound when I try to turn it on.

2006 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 28, 2019


Hi, Gary for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ECU+location+2008+Kawasaki+Vulcan+900+Classic&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWgfroz_PkAhUOjVkKHXzSCSsQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/45198-ecu-location.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375186/Kawasaki-Vn900-Classic.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/vulcan-900-classic-2008-owners-manual-68833

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 28, 2019


Hi, Don and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/54-vulcan-1700/23265-my-vaquero-wont-start-its-been-running-fine-specially-since-i-installed-pcv.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1070920/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1700-Vaquero.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/838271/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1700-Vaquero.html

2012 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 26, 2019


fuel not getting in the cylinder this could either be the float or mixture screw on the carb is a screw the air mixture screw turn this out 1 whole turn or just fiddle with it until it runs if not buddy get back to me c3568b1.jpg

1989 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 26, 2019


Hi, Rider111 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f23/2004-kawasaki-zx10r-not-starting-348122.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375171/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-10r.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/257802/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-10r.html

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 24, 2019


Vin numbers give all the info you need. Call a dealership and they can tell you. If there is a data plate, it also has the model on it.

kawasaki VN 800... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


If it is made different, then you got the wrong part. There can also be changes in electrical items in mid year production. Unfortunately, most electrical parts are not returnable. I suggest you take the part number for the part you got and look it up on the internet or go to your local dealer. OEM is the way to go. Good luck.

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019

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