Question about Toyota Camry
I am replaceing the radiator on a 2007 toyota camry LE 2.4L
The best way is to fill the coolant system, run the engine with the cap off and the heaters on hot until it gets warm . If the water level drops top it up put the cap on , carry on running the engine until the thermostat opens . Shut off engine let it cool once the pressure has dropped take the cap off as it cools the air will come out. Depending on system might have to do it more than once . Make sure the heaters in the car are hot .
Posted on May 18, 2019
Bleeding the air from an engine cooling system is not near as critical as say the braking system. After a radiator is replaced and refilled, new coolant is continually added to the external overflow bottle until the system equalizes as indicated on the "normal" level mark. Since the engines water pump is constantly moving antifreeze under pressure throughout the cooling passages radiator and emissions systems, the negligible amount of air is eventually displaced and vented to the overflow bottle. Some Toyotas do have a high point bleed screw that can be opened to let out the air, but usually only sprays antifreeze all over your engine. Again this small amount of air in the cooling system should not be enough to cause the water pump to cavitate or lose flow. Make sure all hose clamps are tight otherwise air could be drawn in on the suction or low pressure side or antifreeze could leak on the discharge or high pressure side. Good luck!
Posted on May 18, 2019
Get the help from service and repair manual with diagram which will provide you to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com
Posted on May 17, 2019
Turn on heat and park on incline with radiator cap off.
Posted on May 18, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Push and hold trip button on dash with key off, turn key on but don't start, odometer will clock down, when it is finished, lite will go off
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
SOURCE: need marks for timimg belt
On the crankshaft gear there is a VERY small dimple that aligns with a mark on the motor. The mark on the motor (a small triangle) is at roughly 11 o'clock. After you line these timing marks up look at the camshaft gear and you will see that on one of the spokes there is a hole. You need to use a mirror to line this hole up with the dimple on the cover that is behind the camshaft gear. (It is at roughly 1 o'clock) If this hole is 180 degrees from where it should be you need to rotate the motor 1 more revolution at the crankshaft and it should now be lined up, or close. Once lined up I like to take a silver (metallic) Sharpie and make my own mark on the camshaft gear and on the backing plate that is behind it. You can make this mark where ever it is convenient for you. As long as you know where your marks line up, that is all that matters. This way I don't have to use the mirror as often.
Posted on May 26, 2009
Definitely recommended - Process is fairly simple, let the vehicle idle and/or reach normal operating temperature - turn the"bleed screw" slightly open and note as the air bubbles escapes from the screw. Also make sure the radiator is topped up with sufficient coolant. Funny enough, the mechanic should have taken care of this process after replacing the thermostat....
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
Let the engine cool down. With a catch can under the radiator unscrew the petcock. It's usually on the bottom drivers side end tank. Next disconnect the fan wiring and remove the fans. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the overflow hoses from the radiator. Remove the two transmission cooler lines. Remove the two mounting brackets at the top of the radiator and pull the radiator out. Transfer any parts that aren't included with the new radiator and install radiator. The rest is the reverse of removal. I like to use new hose clamps and fresh antifreeze whenever i change a radiator, but it's up to you. If the original antifreeze isn't too old and you didn't get any transmission fluid in it you could reuse it you want.
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
First, I would like to mention that most knock sensor codes are not caused by the knock sensors, but a mechanical problem with the engine. The knock sensors cannot differentiate between noises caused by mechanical problems like a bad pulley bearing, bad motor mount, noisy alternator bearings, etc. and spark knock. knock sensor codes are set when the computer has retarded the timing as far as possible to compensate for ignition ping (Spark Knock) and the noise still exists.
With that said, here are the instructions.
Remove the Intake Chamber assembly.
Disconnect Injector connectors.
Disconnect the heater hose from the Intake Manifold.
Remove the 9 bolts. 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and Intake Manifold assembly.
Remove right hand engine mounting stay and water outlet.
Disconnect the following hoses and connectors:
Radiator inlet hose.
Engine coolant reservoir hose.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor connector.
Engine Coolant Temperature Switch connector.
Ground strap connector.
Remove the 3 bolts and right hand mounting stay.
Remove the wire band.
Disconnect the water bypass hose from the inlet housing.
Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and water outlet.
Remove the 2 gaskets.
Disconnect the Knock Sensor connectors.
Remove the Knock Sensors.
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
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