Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
Normally there is NO LOAD on a sway bar if the vehicle is parked on a flat surface, or jacked up so that both wheels are off the ground. Should not be an issue to remove.
Posted on May 01, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Front Left Sway Bar Link
The front stabilizer shaft (sometimes called a sway bar) is mounted to
the top rear of the frame and to the lower control arm. The shaft is
attached to the frame with clamps and rubber insulators and to the
control arms with insulator links.
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
SOURCE: rear sway bar link
hi normally its a 15 mm spanner that goes between the link and the bar to stop it turning while on the opposite side an 18 mm socket is used to undo the nut .
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
SOURCE: 2001 tahoe door panel
THE COUTESY LAMP IS HOT DUE TO THE DOOR BEING OPEN WHILE THIS PROCEDURE IS DONE!!!! First: Remove the triangle panel at the top of the door (behind the mirror). This is held in with two metal clips about half way down the panel. Do not pry at the bottom as there are two tabs that slide in to keep the module in place. I pulled the top of the triangle out by hand then could see the clips and used a straight screw driver to carefully pry from under the triangle panel so as not to scar the visible part after re-assembly. Once these two clips are disengaged the triangle should pull straight up and be free. Second: Carefully pry out the door lock insert. There are no significant tabs to worry about here. Again a straight screw driver and care should not leave any scars. The lock insert has no mechanical connection but simply is used to slide the lock rod. Re-installing you will need to align the slot for the rod in the lock or unlock position depending on the rod position. Third: Carefully pry out the insert that is located at the door handle. Start at the rear of the insert as this is where the clips are located and once the rear is out pull open the door handle and pull the insert to the rear so as not to break off the two front tabs. You will find two small screws (mine were black). One near the front and one at the rear of the door handle module. Both are 7 mm and are the only ones that need to be remove in the process. (I understand some door panels have an other screw at the very bottom of the door as well; guess you'll have to check you door. Fourth: Pry up the control panel for the automatic windows and unplug the wires. Here again start from the rear and once the rear is free pull the module to the rear and it should come free. There are tabs at the front that you do not want to break off. To unplug the wires - First remove the clips (mine were blue) that hold the plug in place. There is also a push catch on the plug that must be depressed to release the plug from the control panel. Fifth: My door had no push in 'buttons' or clips to hold the door panel in place. It simply lifted up and became free with the exception of the numerous wires attached to things like the speakers, the remote mirrow and courtesy light. Unplug these wires by first taking off any retaining clips (usually blue) and then unplug the wires. The courtesy light pulls straight out (toward the front) and watch your fingers as this is one hot little bulb. The door panel can then be totally removed and set aside. You may find it easier to remove the courtesy light lens by prying out the rear first and then pulling it toward the back of the door so as not to break the two front clips. I found it easier to do this and then install the bulb in the lens and then install the lens back in place. Six: I'm sure I don't need to say it but here goes - ' reverse the procedure to re-assemble'. Remember to poke the courtesy light wire out the hole and re-connect the remote mirror and speaker wires before the door is put in place. The wires to the window and electronic lock module can be installed after the door is back in place. Working by myself made the door difficult to handle during re-installation so I took a 'light' bungy cord and placed some protection over the top of the door and hooked the bungy into the opening were the door handle was to come through. This allowed me to steady the door and do the electrical connections as required. PS - we were replacing the power window motor and were able to 'force' the cable into the gears of the new motor by turning the motor and this saved a lot of further disassembly. The contacts on the new motor were reversed so I removed the pins from the plug going into the motor and reversed them - presto.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
The rear door lock/actuator assembly has failed and will need to be replaced. I had one in the shop recently and my tech had to remove the inside trim panel and manually open the rear hatch before it could be repaired.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
(Caution ) sway bar end is under pressure.
1.go to AutoZone get new linkage bars or just the bushings depends on wether the bar has grooves wore into them from use and new nuts. 2. Raise and safely support vehicle,3. remove tire, 4.using floor jack safely support the lower suspension arm and raise to remove pressure on the linkage bar between swaybar end and lower arm 5. remove the nut under the lower suspension arm that retains the swaybar linkage ,6. loosen and remove nut at swaybar end. 7.at this time only lower the lower suspension arm enough to remove the linkage bar. install new bushings or bar to the swaybar end don't completely tighten nut at this time.8. install new lower bushing then jack the lower suspension arm back up aligning the lower end of the linkage with the hole in the arm once pressure is lifting the swaybar install the lower nut and tighten at this time Torque top nut to35-47 Ft lb and bottom nut 8-10- Ft lb lower the jack from under the lower arm and install tire lower vehicle ready to go Appx 1 Hr per side
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
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